Various Types of Chemical Peels, it’s Benefits & Results
The key to getting most out of them, though, is to understand the underlying science. Here’s everything you need to know to take advantage of the magic of Chemical Peels.
How Peels work?
Our skin is subject to sun exposure, pollution and various other factors, on a daily basis, that make it susceptible to wear and tear but, thankfully, it also has the natural ability to repair and renew itself. However, with age, the production of new skin cells slow down and the damage on the skin start to surface. This is precisely where Chemical Peels work wonders. They start by removing the top layer of the epidermis, instantly restoring some of the skin’s previous lustre and evenness. As they work their way deeper, they loosen the lower layer of the skin and stimulate the basal layer to produce new cells, which replace degenerate cells, leaving the skin uniform, hydrated and supple.
Acid Peels are the most common type of Peels. They work to remove dead cells from the top layer of the upper epidermis. On successive treatment the peel penetrates deeper into the lower layers of the epidermis and weakens the bonds holding together the cells.
The effectiveness of a peel depends on the strength of the peel, its PH, its delivery system and the skin type being treated. The strength of an acid peel can by gauged by:
- The concentration of active agent, i.e., the amount of free acid in the peel. The more the free acid the stronger the peel.
- The pH of the product.
The PH is inversely proportional to the strength of the acid. The lower the PH of an acid system the greater its tendency to release its Hydrogen ion, which then reacts with the chemical bonds in the skin. Contrarily, the higher the PH reading the more it holds on to its Hydrogen ion and is regarded more basic. PH values range from 0 to 14, 0 being most acidic, 7 being neutral and 14 being most basic. Acid peels usually read between 1.5 to 4.0 on the PH scale.
- The Type of Peel
There are Esthetic peels and Medical peels. For cosmetic purposes we recommend esthetic peels. They are less aggressive, have a wide range of acid and non-acid ingredients, which most often have secondary benefits, such as, skin-lightening or antibacterial properties, and act only on the surface of the upper layers of the skin. They also allow the skincare professional to have better control over the outcome of the treatment. Esthetic peels include acid peels that work from the outside in, mild enzyme peels and also non acids, such as, retinoids (Vitamin A derivatives) that work on the lower layers of the skin and activate the basal cells to produce new cells. Medical Peels are aggressive peel treatments so it’s imperative that it’s done by trained physicians, as they can not only penetrate the complete thickness of the epidermis but can also impact the dermis. Medical Peels are typically used when the skin is deeply damages and less aggressive treatments fail. They range from medium depth peels to deep depth, and are performed under anaesthesia. Glycolic acid and Trichloroacetic acid in higher concentrations are considered medium-depth peels and Phenol Peels are the most commonly used deep-depth peels.
- The Delivery System
The main chemical peel systems comprise of AHAs (Alpha Hydroxyl Acids) and blends of other acids. They promote a mild peel of the top layer of the epidermis, prevent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and are also rich in anti-bacterial properties, making it an effective anti-acne treatment. It also reduces melanin production, thus slowing excess pigmentation.
Peel Myth: Stronger is always better
It is essential to note that stronger peels are not always better. The type of peel strictly depends on the skin type and the amount of damage being treated. For example, Trichloracetic acid (TCA) peels can be effective in treating pigmented skin that is a result of the skin’s natural maturation cycle but they can be counterproductive when working darker skin tones or on skin that easily triggers melanocytes due to inflammatory reactions to aggressive peeling agents. Lighter and less aggressive peels over a period of time are a good approach to better long-term results.
Understanding the effects of Peels
It is important to understand and respect the power of peel treatments. It has tremendous benefits but if done incorrectly, it can also cause harm to your skin. So, when considering chemical peel treatment, make sure you’ve done your research and are getting it done only by the most capable and well-trained skin care professionals.
Peels, the Kaya Way
At Kaya, we house expert dermatologists who are extensively trained on Peel treatments for treating anti aging related skin problems. We design personalised treatments that benefit the skin to the maximum and produce the best results.